Rio de Janeiro — L: Cristo Redentor statue R: Copacabana/Ipanema beach
Rio de Janeiro — L: Cristo Redentor statue R: Copacabana/Ipanema beach
August 2019
I came to Brazil with a plan that destructed moments after arriving. The result: unintentionally backpacking solo. I traveled alone for almost 2 months, feeling at peace with the couchsurfers I met along the way.
Without a plan I headed to Rio de Janeiro, a city full of beleza. I ended up staying for weeks, exploring the trilhas in the urban forest and sunbathing at the praias. I learned enough portuguese for small talk. I got by with life’s daily activities; some folks compliment my effort and others simply couldn't understand me. Many locals remarked what couragem I had, being alone in Brazil. With each sunset, I heeded the advice of many and would return to base. I spent many evenings gazing at Cristo Redentor from my host’s balcony. In fact, I began to notice that wherever I was in Rio de Janeiro, Cristo was always within sight.
Settling into the Brazilian lifestyle gave me a sense of community. I befriended the strangers I met and accepted spontaneous travel plans. I was invited to couchsurf with a wholesome family in Visconde de Mauá, a beautiful town in the mountains. They patiently helped me learn portuguese and I felt at home. We went to a cabin in Vale Matutu, where I heard country folk speaking portuguese with a twang. Being back in nature was the boost I needed after hitting the ground backpacking.
Later, I visited Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais which translates to Beautiful Horizon, (in the state of) General Mines. This region is vibrant in topography and many areas were mined to excavate the natural materials.
Another town in Minais Gerais is Ouro Preto, meaning 'black gold’, whose name presumably derives from the slave labor used for mining during the gold rush. Travelers could recognize Ouro Preto from afar because of a natural landmark in the surrounding mountain; a large rock formation jutting into the sky. Pictured in the background, this outcropping guided the Portuguese colonizers. Once settled, they built several yellow churches thus adding to the visibility. Ouro Preto is a small and hilly town packed with pastoral hues; strolling the streets reveal picture-postcard neighborhoods.
Catching the sunset at Igreja Matriz de Santa Efigênia
Practically every seasonal fruit can be found in a city’s central market. Street vendors always have watermelon, pineapple, papaya (and more!) chopped and ready for consumption. Passion fruit is versatile; it is in many different types of foods (bake goods, mixed drinks, even side dishes).
Mercado Central
The berry, açaí, is another versatile treat. Açaí comes from the northern part of Brazil and was traditionally served as a savory dish, with rice and some salt.
After nearly two months of backpacking solo, I took enough buses and blablas (aka carpools) to end up in Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil a city on the border of Argentina. A massive river flowing from the interior of Brazil dumps 50% of its water off the edge, forming an expansive waterfall system and marking the frontier between countries.
You can visit the national park in both Brazil and Argentina, where you are so close you can feel the mist from the waterfalls and see rainbows bursting. I crossed the border into Puerto Iguazú, Argentina on foot. I reflected fondly on the past seven weeks as I walked away from Brazil, leaving behind my portuñol.